Chaining Up

This article is Under construction!  Please excuse the mess.

Videos and images Coming Soon!

Chaining up a truck can be very challenging, especially if you have never been trained.  The cold, chemicals on the road and the chains themselves fight against you the whole time.   The information I am providing here is to help drivers with quickly chaining up in miserable conditions. 

Different Methods of Chaining up

There are many ways of chaining up, but below are the three most common;

• Wrap and Roll - Wrap the tires and rolling on to the chains(Recommended, safest, fastest and easiest).
• No Move - Chaining up without moving the truck(Need to know in a pinch or if you are stuck in traffic and know you will need them when the road reopens).
• Block Method - Using a board(2"x6" or 4"x4") to roll the inside wheel on to, raising the outer wheel to install the chains freely. 

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Wrap and Roll Chain up Method

 

Time

The majority of drivers, I talk to and train, chain up four wheels in an hour to three hours before learning these basics.  My average time, chaining up four wheels, is under twelve minutes.  I mention this because the amount of time is extremely important.  The longer you are in this cold environment, the more miserable it becomes.  Even with waterproof gloves, everything you are touching is bringing your hands down to a freezing temperature.  There is also a higher risk of getting hit by a motorist, that could loose control of their vehicle.

What You Need

Have everything you need before you start:

• Chains, preferably the correct size
• Chain/Cam wrench, usually supplied with your chains
• Short Bungee chord(15" Rubber)
• Add-a-link or Quick Links, at least one for each tire(optional, but helpful when chains are fighting you)
• Bolt cutters, 24" or larger
• Insulated chemical gloves
• Headlamp(optional, but helps if you need to look in between the tires)
• Hand Warmers(optional, but great when the temperatures are below zero degrees fahrenheit)
• Old jacket or waterproof sleeves
• Hat(to keep slush from dripping onto your head while reaching in to connect the chains)
• Waterproof Boots(Optional, but if it is wet and slushy you will regret not having these) 
• Knee pads or a mat(optional, helps if you have to put your knees on the ground)

The Setup

Once you have everything, it will all need to be set up ahead of time.

Pull your chains out before you head to the snow.  Lay them on the ground, spread out and make sure they are untangled/unwrapped and not broken.  This is a very important step because if the chains are not straight and unwrapped, they probably won't fit.  If they are broken, you don't want to use them.  "How to" video and pictures coming soon!

Next, your chains need to be set up for easy retrieval.

In Cab Passenger Side Floor - Place the chains, untangled/unwrapped, in separate and nice set of piles.  Use the closed end chain links at the bottom of the piles, with the hook ends on top.  That way when you grab each set of chains they won't get caught or hooked on anything.  Including hooking on to themselves and possibly getting re-tangled.   "How to" video and pictures coming soon!

Side box or tool boxes - Same setup as the in cab passenger side floor, except I usually have separate piles on each side of the truck.  That way I carry the chains to the closest set of wheels they are going on.  If you don't chain up as often as I do, once to twice daily on snow days, then having the piles on the passenger side box is a great place.  This keeps them out of the way for other items you frequently pull out of the box and is away from the traffic side when you do need to access them.  "How to" video and pictures coming soon!

Chain racks on your trailer or tractor - You have to make sure you place the chains so they come off easy and in the correct direction.  The tightening cams need to be hanging on the bottom and the knuckle flat portion needs to be facing in.  That will allow you to pull the chains off, without having to re-grip or adjust how you are holding the chains.  Most companies I have worked for don't have these luxury items, but the chain racks can save time, are a much cleaner and safer way to carry chains.

Place the short bungee and chain cam wrench where you can access them without having to climb up into the truck.  I usually leave mine on the driver side next to the front seat, where they can be easily grabbed when you open the driver door.  I don't place them on the chains because I don't want them to fall out into the snow when you pull the chains out.  If you decide to place them on the chains anyway, make sure you grab them before pulling your chains out.  I recommend putting the cam wrench and bungee in an easily accessible pocket.  Otherwise, this can be very difficult to access with gloves on and will add to your total time chaining up.

Coat, hat, chemical gloves and headlamp/flashlight should be where you can access them before getting out of the truck.  The gloves will need a place to drip dry after chaining up.  The road chemicals can be a very oily and gets all over everything.  You can attempt to wash the gloves by using the snow around you.

Bolt cutters, fifthwheel release bar and any other items don't have to be readily available.  They are needed if things don't go as planned or if you have to chain up in an unexpected location.  I.E. an slick exit ramp, parking lot...

Where to Chain Up

Where you chain up is just as important as how you chain up.  This season(2022-2023) we have already had at least one truck driver, local to Denver, get killed while chaining up on the shoulder.  A motorist lost control, on very steep and slick part of I-70, and hit the truck driver outside of his truck.  I will not add who I believe might have been at fault, but it is important to try and prevent a bad situation if it is possible.  There have been many occasions when the chain up areas have been full, under plowed, not plowed, blocked or even closed.  On 2/14/2023 I had to chain up on the Eastbound shoulder of Floyd Hill, a very steep portion of I-70 just West of Denver, and didn't have any other option.  The chain up area and shoulder were blocked by trucks chaining up or waiting to chain up.  In this case it would have been more dangerous to wait because of the shoulder and ramps, all the way from the city before the chain up area, were already too congested and unsafe to stop. The point is to make sure you attempt to choose the best location while thinking of the possible risks.

• Designated chain up area (recommended). 
  • The designated areas are sometimes separated from the highway and can help with minimal protection from other motorists.
  • They are usually well lit on major highways and relatively flat.  Making it easier to pull forward or backward without spinning your wheels.
  • The chain up areas can also get backed up and you can get blocked by someone slower chaining up.  Depending on the time of day you go through the chain law areas, there is not enough room for the volume of truck traffic needing them.
• The next best choice is an exit ramp with a shoulder or enough room on a relatively flat surface.
  • Does not usually have any lighting, but you can get away with using your headlamp to light enough area for chaining up.
  • Is mostly separated from traffic.  You do have other trucks trying to do the same thing, driving past looking for a spot, but you are away from the high speed traffic.  Depending on the exit and time of day, you could also end up with travelers and ski traffic using that exit.
  • There is usually not a lot of room, but everyone is usually moving slower and are less likely to loose control.  Sometimes gets congested with other trucks attempting the same thing.
  • The more likely you can get blocked by someone using the whole ramp, to chain up.  Sometimes this is a driver that is fast at chaining up and they don't believe anyone will get stuck waiting behind them, or its someone that just doesn't care.
  • Sometimes that exit ramp is where the snow plows turn around.  This can be a problem because the plows are wider then a normal truck and you could end up blocking them from clearing your path.
• Large parking lot of a business that is easy to get in and out of and is closed.
  • Most places I chain up, there are no parking lots near by.
  • Sometimes there are truck stops and gas stations, that are large enough for trucks to park for the night, that are close enough to chain up or down.
  • They also don't have the time or ability to keep the ground clear in a snow storm.
  • If you try this and luck out with a nice area, not blocking anyone, you will have more time and less stress to finish faster.
• Before you leave your warehouse or where you are parked for your ten hour break.  This has never worked out for me, but I thought I would mention as an option because I know some drivers that do this.  Usually it is when the roads are bad everywhere and you already know it will be slow the whole way.
  • Distance to where you need to chain up is too far.
  • Chain up while on duty, maybe during your pre-trip(Disclaimer: I'm not recommending breaking the law.....).
  • Space and Time
  • You won't have to deal with other trucks chaining up in your way.
  • You will wear your chains out faster and may break before you get to the required chain up area.
  • Will help you if all of the roads are really bad.
• The shoulder is the last option.
  • Dangerous.
    • There is usually no room to work.
    • Motorists and other trucks do not usually slowdown.  This is sometimes because on slick roads you should maintain your momentum to prevent getting stuck.  Cars and trucks usually don't care or understand the risk they are taking.
  • Usually it's in un-plowed areas, making it difficult to deal with the chains getting snow packed.  It also increases your risk of getting stuck. 
  • Usually you are on a steep grade that only allows you to chain up rolling backwards or without moving the truck.  Increasing the opportunity of getting wet cold and miserable.
• More Coming soon

Please note: Parking parallel to another truck in the chain up area, in the road, is a really bad idea.  This is asking for your trailer to get damaged or you to get hit. 

The Process

Once you have everything and have it set up, a process using these tools will help you become more efficient and minimize any discomfort. 

Please note: This process is following the chain law requirements of Colorado.  This law requires four tires to have chains on when the chain law is in place.  Because of this, I recommend using single chain sets on the outer drive tires.

• Make sure your tractor brakes are set.
• Get your jacket, hat and headlamp on.(Headlamp optional if the chain up are is well lit)
• Grab your gloves and pull your chains out of the truck and place them on the tires.  They should be pulled out one at a time, to keep them untangled and to keep the snow off of them.
  • Place the least used or newest chains on the front drive tires.  By placing the most used chains on the back drive tires, you will limit the risk of damage to something critical.  When the chains wear out and break, if they are on the front, they usually destroy fenders first and then the fuel tank next.  On the back, there usually isn't any damage because the mud flap is the only thing they can directly hit.
  • The chain knuckles need to be facing out.(Picture coming soon)
  • The chain cams need to be on the outside of the tire.(Picture coming soon)  This is so you can tighten the chains once they are on.
  • The chain needs to be draped over the tire, with the front barely touching the ground.(Picture coming soon)
  • The chain needs to be untangled/unwrapped, straight and even across the tire. 
• Roll forward until the chains are three quarters of the way wrapped around the wheel.  It is important to not roll too far forward or not enough.  When you roll too far forward, your chains will fall off the tire and you will end up fighting a ruthless battle against the chain.  If you don't pull forward enough, the front side of the chains are not tight enough and the back side of the chains will be more difficult to reach and connect.
• Make sure the chain placement is correct.  If the chain is not centered, it will either fall off or it will not fit on the wheel.
  • Chain needs to be centered across the wheel, all of the way around.
  • If the chain falls off either side, start over.
• Connect the chains, one at a time.
  • Carry your cam wrench, short bungee chord and quick links/add a links to the wheels chaining up. 
  • Hook the inside chain hook to the last link, connecting the inside row(Also known as the rail).  If you know the chains will need to be connected closer, to take up slack, hook the chain hook to the appropriate link.
  • Hook the outside row or rail of the chain together.
    • If the chain won't fit together.
      • Check that the chains are not wrapped up or tangled.  This is the most common reason or problem with chains not fitting.  If they are, remove the chains, straighten them out and start over.
      • Hook the bungee on the link just past the cross chains(between the last free chain link and the cross chains).  Leaving the bungee hooked to the chain link, run the center of the bungee through the chain hook.  Pull the bungee tight, stretching the chain row/rail together.  If the chain will still not hook, drive forward six feet after connecting all of the other chains.  If the chain will not hook, use an quick link/add a link.  If it will take more then one link, the chains might be way too small or are wrapped and should start the process over from the beginning.
• Tighten the cams until the chains are very tight.
  • If the chains are not tight, after wrenching the chains, try to hook the rails/row on a closer link.  The inside row/rail needs to be hooked to no more then one link difference then the outside row/rail.
    • Remove the bungee chords used for hook the chains.
• Attach bungees.  If you want to use a spider bungee, or other bungees for travel.
• Drive - Some drivers recommend checking the chains after driving a short time.  If they are tight and set up properly, this is optional.

More Coming Soon.....

Driving with Chains on

More Coming Soon.....

FAQs

Should I unhook My trailer to chain up?

No. I do not recommend unhooking your trailer to chain up.  This is actually illegal in some states, but more importantly it takes longer and you can risk your fifthwheel not locking properly.  The main arguments for unhooking to chain are; it is easier to see everything, it is easier to reach in and connect the links and it is easier to stay dry if it is slushy.

Do I need to put bungee chords on the chains?

No.  It can help to have bungee chords on your chains when your chains break, but I have not had seen any other benefit when using them.  When your chains break, it helps prevent the chains from wrapping around the axle or flying off the tire and possibly causing other damage.